Umzimkulu River – Stoke’s farm to Islington Store, aka Waterfall Section

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This has become a favorite section for kayakers, especially the short first stretch, which has become known as the Waterfall Section. There are some spectacular waterfalls and interesting rapids, with enough flat water between all the action to recover.

  • Ideal for: Kayak, croc, raft
  • Grade: 3 to 4
  • Length: 1) 5km 2) 30km
  • Duration: 1) 2 to 3 hours 2) 6 to 7 hours
  • Type: Pool-drop, few waterfalls
  • Put-in: Stoke’s farm
  • Take-out: 1) At Cooper’s Falls, still on Stoke’s farm. 2) Islington Store
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: Farmer at Stoke’s farm is very friendly. At least greet him when you put in.
  • Detailed trip report on Adrian Tregoning’s blog: Umzimkulu River – Waterfall Section, High Level Blast

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Umzimkulu River – Centocow to Stoke’s farm

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For K1-paddlers, this is a pleasant section of the Umzimkulu River. The first two and last five kilometers have class 2 to 3 rapids, while the middle section is mostly flat with a few class 1 and 2 rapids. Two kilometers before the take out is a class 4/5 rapid which should be portaged by K1-paddlers. Remember to take out before the small waterfall at the end.

  • Ideal for: K1
  • Grade: 1 to low 3
  • Length: 18km
  • Duration: 2 to 3 hours
  • Type: Pool-drop
  • Put-in: Centocow Mission bridge
  • Take-out: Stoke’s farm
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: Farmer at Stoke’s farm is very friendly. At least greet him when you put in.

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Umzimkulu River – Polela to Centocow

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This is a fairly steep and rocky section of the Umzimkulu River, where some of the rapids drop several meters in as little distance. At low levels it is rocky and only suitable for kayaks, but when the level gets higher, wildwater racers can enjoy it as well. At all levels it is enjoyable for kayakers who have a bit of experience.

  • Ideal for: Kayak
  • Grade: 3 to low 4
  • Length: 10km
  • Duration: 3 to 4 hours
  • Type: Pool-drop
  • Put-in: Polela confluence, where road comes close to river
  • Take-out: Centocow mission bridge
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: None

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Umzimkulu River – Thrombosis Gorge

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Thrombosis Gorge, or “Thrombi” as it is commonly known, is one of the most popular technical sections in the country. The section includes Thrombi Falls, an 11m waterfall that is probably the most regularly run waterfall in the country.

  • Ideal for : Kayak
  • Grade: 4, at high level 5
  • Length: 1) 8km 2) 25km
  • Duration: 1) 2-4 hours, depending on amount of scouting. 2) 6-7 hours
  • Type: Pool-drop
  • Put-in: Bridge across river. First turn-off to Coleford from R617 when coming from Bulwer to Underberg.
  • Take-out: 1) Farm 2) Polela confluence
  • Levels paddleable: Look at low-level bridge at put-in. If small pillars are under water, the level is very high.
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: Permission from farmer at first take-out

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Umzimkulu River – Drakensberg Gardens to Second Coleford bridge, aka Drakensberg Challenge

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This section of the Umzimkulu River is mostly used by K1 racers, and an annual two-day race, called the Drakensberg Challenge, is held over the course described here. The start is not far from the source and the river is very small here, but small tributaries feed it constantly, so it gets bigger as one progresses downstream. The water is very clear on this upper part and the escarpment can be seen from the river, making for a pleasant experience.

  • Ideal for: K1
  • Grade: 1 to 3
  • Length: 60km
  • Duration: 2 day race
  • Type: Small river with long flats and technical rapids
  • Put-in for first day: 7 Kay bridge, on the way to Drakensberg Gardens
  • Take-out for second day: Second Coleford bridge
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: None

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Polela River

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The Polela is one of the Umzimkulu’s significant tributaries. It is a technical creek which is only recommended for competent kayakers with proper scouting skills. There are a couple of waterfalls on this section, but they are easy to be portaged. They can be shot by experienced kayakers, but scout properly and don’t attempt if you are not a hundred percent sure.

The rapids are all runnable but some are very steep and tight. At medium to high levels a few nice playspots can even be found, although most paddlers on this section won’t be too worried about playing. Some of the rapids have nasty pour-overs that should be missed or precisely boofed. If you are not faced by this description, enjoy the ride.

  • Ideal for: Kayak
  • Grade: 3 to 5
  • Length: 23km
  • Duration: 4 to 6 hours
  • Type: Pool-drop creek
  • Put-in: Bridge where R617 crosses river
  • Take-out: Confluence with Umzimkulu, road comes close to river
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: None

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Umtamvuna River

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The Umtamvuna River forms the border between KwaZulu-Natal and Transkei, and the last 40 km of the river to the sea goes through what is arguably the most stunning gorge in South Africa. Some big walls can be seen, with thick tropical vegetation. This must be the closest you can get to a tropical jungle in Southern Africa. It is unspoilt for the most part and extremely remote. Once in the gorge, it is virtually impossible to walk out.

  • Ideal for: Kayak
  • Grade: Mostly 3 to 4, some bordering on 5
  • Length: 44km
  • Duration: 8 to 10 hours, depending on water level. Preferably a 2 day trip.
  • Type: Technical pool-drop, some sections continuous
  • Put-in: Road from Port Edward to Izingolweni. Turn off to Umtamvuna Water Purification Plant. Don’t enter plant, take road down to river (+-3.5km). Where powerlines cross road, take track to left. Walk down from here or use 4×4 (+-1km).
  • Take-out: Old Pont Caravan Park just outside Port Edward, on road to Izingolweni
  • Dam controlled: No
  • Permits: Pay at take-out

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Losing to gain

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The reputation of Wits Explorers has taken a fair amount of abuse over the years because of deaths on two of its expeditions. In all honestly, it must be said that considering the nature of the expeditions they attempted, and the time at which they were attempted, the explorers did very well indeed. It must also be said that we, paddlers collective, are sometimes just plain lucky that things don’t turn out worse on some of the trips that we undertake.

“I dedicate this to Duncan and Kirsty who taught me more about rivers than did anyone else in my career.” – HduP

LEAVING Senator House on Wits Campus, I bumped into a Wits Explorers poster advertising a Kunene River expedition during my summer holidays. I immediately decided that I was going. Rather arrogantly, without any thought that the expedition might not want me. Read More

Transkei Missions – part 1

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Every expedition starts with an idea. The idea grows until someone gets interested (or obsessed) enough by the idea to put a plan in action to make it happen. This process can take weeks, months, sometimes years. Getting to run the main Tsitsa Gorge was no different.

THE Transkei – literally meaning “Across the Kei River” – conjures images of endless mountains and valleys, inhabited by traditional Xhosa people and their mythical forefathers’ spirits. It’s a true image, but not the whole truth. The Transkei boasts the type of raw beauty that only Africa can deliver, where spectacular natural scenery goes hand in hand with poverty, violence and corruption. It’s a part of South Africa that feels so remote from the civilized world that it could just as well have been in Africa’s heart of darkness. Read More

The process of design

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Few things in life are as satisfying as the process of R&D, short for Research and Development. Not every project goes through exactly the same phases, but in general the process goes like this:

  • Identify an existing opportunity in a market, or identify a need that can be created, or get forced to create a solution for a pressing problem, or get talked into a project by a friend, or get a design brief from a client.

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